I'm not quite sure why I am even complaining as we had a private sleeper berth that was utter luxury to the "lower" class carriages. Hard wooden seats, jammed packed with people of all ages and in varying conditions of health. And they were the lucky ones. Just as many were squatting on the wooden floors or hanging on near the open doors.
No, what those guys had to put up with makes our little trip a jaunt to the seaside and yet no one complained or moaned and they were all smiling and chatting away. Even the sight of two westerners only provoked a staring curiosity and the opportunity for the braver ones to try out some English.
Which is another revelation, the number of people who speak very good English in all walks of life. Many more than anticipated and great for us, as they are all willing to practise and help us along the way.
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